A Complete Guide for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing in Nepal
27 Apr

A Complete Guide For Mera Peak And Island Peak Climbing In Nepal

Mera and Island Peaks are the trekking peaks in Everest Region at an elevation higher than 6,000 meters from sea level. The climbing of Mera and Island Peaks is a package of adventure climbing in those summits. Mountaineering, also referred to as alpine climbing, is the sport of traversing a mountain. The climbing combination of Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Trip is a great opportunity for avid mountaineers in the region of the Himalayas. Both peaks are popular climbing destinations for climbers and adventure seekers that offer stunning views. 

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal which sits at an elevation of 6,476 meters above sea level. Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse is another trekking peak that stands at 6,189 meters above sea level. Both peaks are neighboring peaks with Amphu Labsta Pass in between the combined mountaineering trek. The climb to the summits involves exposure to the alpine villages, valleys, alpine forests,white-water rivers, and panoramic mountain views. Alpine climbing allows learning technical skills to walk on glaciers and challenging mountains in Nepal. The top of the summit provides the most beautiful panoramic view of the Himalayan range, including the views of Lhotse (8,516 meters), Makalu (8,481 meters), Everest (8,848 meters), Cho Oyu (8,188 meters), Nuptse (7,876 meters) and Ama Dablam (6,854 meters). 

Both peaks are PD- a graded alpine mountain that is mainly used as introductory peaks for beginners. However, climbing the peaks requires high-altitude experiences and basic mountaineering skills such as the use of crampons, and ropes to ascend and descend. All in all, both climbs offer a peculiar and rewarding experience for climbers. 

Mera Peak Climbing Trip in Nepal
Spectacular view of Mt Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from Mera Peak. 


Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Trip Face:

Duration 21 Days
Group Size 2 -to 12 People.
Grade Challenging
Region Everest Region (Khumbu Region of Nepal) 
Altitude Island Peak (6,189 meters) and  Mera Peak (6,476 meters)
Trek Nature Combination of  Lodge,  Teahouse Trek, and Camping.  
Activity Per Day Approx 5 to 8  hrs.
Accommodation Hotel/Lodge/ Tea House/ Camp during the Climbing Period.
Start Point and End Point  Lukla.
Meals Full Board (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner)
Best Season  Autumn ( Sept, Oct, Nov) & Spring ( Mar, Apr, May)



Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Trip Highlights:-

  • Experience the highest trekking peak expedition in Nepal.
  • Mera Peak (6,476 meters) and Island Peak/Imja Tse (6,189 meters)
  • Use Crampons, Ropes, and Ice Axes to climb the peaks.
  • Stunning panoramic mountain views.  
  • Views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Ama dablam.
  • Exposure to alpine villages, and culture.
  • Proper acclimatization and preparation. 

View from Mera PeakMt. Everest, Lhotse and Makalu View from Mera Peak. 


Which is harder Mera or Island Peak?
Mera Peak
- Snow-covered, non-technical, alpine PD
Island Peak - Snow-covered, glaciated, semi-technical, alpine PD+. Includes abseil without a top rope, crossing crevasses on ladders, and exposed ridge.

Island Peak is technically a more demanding trekking peak than Mera Peak because of the technical difficulties of the climb such as using ice axes, crampons, and ropes to navigate the steep and icy terrain.
Island Peak is graded as an alpine PD+ mountain with an altitude of 6,189 meters and Mera Peak sits at an elevation of 6,476 meters from sea level as a PD-level mountain. The PD grade level in alpine climbing is 'Peu Difficile' meaning 'Somewhat Difficult'. There's a slight difference in the climbing grade level making the summit push harder in Island Peak, which involves exposed climbing. Due to the involvement of technical climbing skills to navigate the Island Peak's terrain and a glacier crossing, climbing Island Peak to some degree is harder in comparison to Mera Peak.

The grade of any alpine climbing is factored by the height of the mountain, the technical difficulties of the climb, and the conditions of the terrain. Island Peak rates are higher in the aspects of the seriousness of the route, technical difficulty, and dangers a climber may encounter which is why Island Peak is harder to climb despite the fact that Mera Peak is higher in length, and altitude.

Mera Peak Climb Amphu Labtsa Pass Island Peak Climbing.Amphu Labtsa Pass 

Learn More About Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing


Over and above that, sources have reported that most of the attempts fail due to altitude sickness, falls, and avalanches making the Island Peak a fatal peak. Climbers should be aware of the risks and be aware of the requirement of self-sufficiency and self-management in the mountains. It is essential to emphasize the importance of proper preparation, acclimatization, and having experienced guides when attempting to climb Island Peak and Mera Peak.

Although the peaks are not very challenging, it still requires some effort and skills to accomplish successful mountain climbing. Overall, these peaks climbing is manageable with moderate levels of fitness among climbers.

Can a beginner climb Mera Peak and Island Peak?
Island Peak and Mera Peak are both considered to be PD-level trekking peaks above the altitude of 6,000 meters. PD-graded mountains are good introductory peaks for beginners as they are unlike the difficult peaks whose routes involve sustained snow travel. Despite being favorable mountains for beginners, both peaks involve technical climbing and especially the ability to cope with high-altitude climates.

Novice climbers can also climb the peaks with a certain level of mountaineering experience, physical fitness, and technical skills such as the use of crampons, ropes, and ice axes. With a proper level of endurance, stamina, mental stability, and altitude fitness, any climber can successfully climb both peaks. One can prepare through aerobic and cardiovascular exercises and also being prepared mentally in order to make oneself fit for the mountaineering expedition. While climbing, it's necessary to remain hydrated, take protein and carb-rich diets and the most essential is acclimatizing the body.

The fact is Island Peak is a more technical climb and requires some previous mountaineering experience. The summit ridge involves exposed climbing and scrambling on rock. While Mera Peak is more accessible to beginners due to less exposed climbing. The combined climbing of Mera Peak and Island Peak is a great opportunity for avid mountaineers to hone their mountaineering skills.

Island Peak Climbing Trip
Island Peak Summit.


Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Route

The Mera Peak (6,476 meters) and Island Peak (6.189 meters) are the neighboring peaks in the Everest Region. Like the classic Everest trek, the duo expedition starts with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Trekkers will follow the trail through Hinku Valley. The trail leads through many attractions such as rhododendron-bloomed forests, grazing lands, the Hinku River, small villages, glaciers, and views of the surrounding mountains.

Within 10 days, the climbers will be able to summit the Mera Peak (6,476 m) if weather and situations allow.  After a Mera High Camp stay at an elevation of 5,800 meters, a push to the summit is being made and then descend to Kongma Dingno and from there follow the trail to Seto Pokhari (4,825 m). Trekkers will face the most remote trail of the Himalayas while heading towards Amphu Labsta Pass (5,845 meters).

Climbers will camp at Amphu Labtsa Base of the South, cross the Amphu Labtsa Pass, and then again camp at Amphu Labtsa Base of the North. From there, the scenic trail takes towards Island Peak Base Camp (5,087 meters). Finally, the Island Peak ascend begins from the high camp (5,600 meters) of Island Peak. The climb involves steep snow and ice climbing to the summit of Island Peak which stands at an elevation of 6,189 metres. 

Mera Peak and Island Peak via Amphu Labsta Pass
Mera and Island peak climbing
typically start from Lukla after a thrilling flight from Tribhuvan International Airport to Lukla Airport. Mera Base Camp (5,300 meters) trek requires several days of 5 - 8 hours of everyday hiking through various landscapes in the Everest Region. The journey to Mera Peak Base Camp also offers a great alpine forest trail, views of snow-capped mountains, and glaciers such as Hinku Nap and Shar Glaciers at an altitude of 5,000 meters. On the day of the Mera Peak (6,476 meters) summit push, a descent is made to Seto Pokhari (4,825 meters) from where the south Amphu Labsta Base Camp (5,650 meters) is approached. 

Trekkers have to make it through a technically challenging mountain trail from Amphu Labsta Base Camp in the South to reach the Amphu Labsta Pass. The top of the pass offers awe-inspiring views of snow-capped mountains and alpine valleys. Then a descent is made towards Amphu Labsta Base Camp in the North (5,087 meters) from where 6 to 7 hours of the hike would take to the base camp of Island Peak. 

Amphu Labtsa Pass is a challenging and alpine pass located in the Khumbu region at an altitude of 5,845 meters. Climbing the Amphu Labtsa peak requires mountaineering skills and experience in high-altitude terrain. It involves a steep ascent and descent on both sides of the pass. Amphu Labsta Pass has been the cross route to get to the Imja Valley where the Island Peak lies.

As Amphu Labsta Pass is a technical pass, climbing the pass should be done with careful planning and help from experienced guides and porter support. It should be noted that the pass is only accessible during the trekking season from late September to November and from March to May due to unstable weather, and snow-blocked routes in other months. One must have a high level of physical fitness and mountaineering experience to cross the pass. 


Best time to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak

The best time to climb Mera Peak and Island Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons when the weather conditions are stable and the climbing conditions are optimal. In order to avoid difficulties during the Rainy seasons such as Leech-infested trek routes, and cloudy skies, monsoon season is not recommended for mountain expeditions. While in order to avoid colder temperatures, snow-falls, and unclear skies, the Winter season is also not recommended. For safe and scenic expeditions of the mountains, pre and post-monsoon seasons are ideal. 


Just Close to Island Peak Summit.

Spring season - March to May.

Spring Season is the season of blooming flowers, mild temperatures, stable weather, and clear skies making it an ideal time for trekking and climbing in Nepal. It lasts from the months of March to May. 

Autumn Season- End of September to November.
Autumn Season is the most popular season for trekking and climbing in Nepal. The season is gifted with average temperature, clear skies, spectacular mountain views, less snowfall, and no rain at all making it an excellent time for mountain sporting. The season falls from the month of End of September to November. 

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Cost
The cost of climbing Mera Peak and Island Peak can vary depending on several factors, such as the season, the duration of the climb, the size of the group, and the required level of support. The estimated cost of a single climb ranges from USD 2,500 to USD 5,000 per person. The cost includes permits, transportation, meals, accommodations, climbing equipment, and the services of a guide and porter. But, the price is cheaper for a combined package climbing than a single separate climb cost due to combined travel. We Offer Mera Peak and Island Peak combination combing trips for USD 3800 for each client minimum group size of 2 people. 

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Gear List

Peak Climbing Gears

Mountaineering Equipment

Mountaineering boots and crampons

Ice axe and harness

Ascender and descender devices

Carabiners, slings, and ropes

Helmet

Avalanche safety gears (Transceiver, Probe, and Shovel)

Climbing harness and helmet

Headlamp with extra batteries

 

Clothing

Insulated Jackets and Pants

Windproof and Waterproof Jacket and Pants

Base Layers

Fleece

Climbing Gloves and Liner Gloves

Mountaineering socks and Gaiters

Sunglasses/ Ski Goggles

Warm hat and Balaclava

 

Other Gears

Backpack (50 - 70 liters)

Sleeping Bag (-20 degrees Celsius or colder rating)

Trekking poles

Water Bottles or Hydration pouch

Sunscreen/ Lip Balm with SPF

Personal first aid kit

Personal toiletries and wet wipes

Towel


Fitness and Training for Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing
Climbing Mera Peak and Island Peak requires a high level of physical fitness and endurance. Here are some key fitness requirements for these climbs:

Cardiovascular fitness: Climbing at a high altitude requires a high level of cardiovascular activity. Activities like running, cycling, swimming, and hiking can help to build cardiovascular endurance which would be needed at low-level oxygen zones. 

Strength Training: Core muscle training would be required for mountain climbing. Training core muscle strengthening either at the Gym or home-based exercises such as planks, squats, lunges, crunches, and body pumps can help to build stability and strengthen core body muscles.

Endurance Training: Mera Peak and Island Peak involve long days of walking and climbing, often for several hours. Long-distance running, hiking, and stair climbing can build the necessary endurance for these climbs.

Featured Climbing Packages

 

Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak Climbing is a well-known trekking peak, is located in Nepal. It has three pinnacles – namely Mera Central, Mera North, and Mera South. The pinnacles are reckoned as being the highest official trekking peaks in Nepal.
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Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing trip is a combination of Climbing and Trekking to Everest Base Camp the world’s highest peak mount Everest Base Camp and climbs popular trekking peaks Island Peak is the trip of a lifetime surrounding the eight-thousander peaks.
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Altitude Training: Altitude Training prepares the body for reduced oxygen levels in high-altitude zones. The training involves stimulating high-altitude conditions by training in a low-oxygen environment or using an altitude training mask.

Mental Preparation is also another ground level of self-training for mountain climbing. It can be done by consulting with experienced mountaineers. And it's the very due responsibility of an individual to consult with a medical professional before embarking on a high-altitude climb. 


Mera Peak Climbing Trip Video.

Visit Himalaya Treks is Nepal base Local company Providing Trekking, Tours, Peak Climbing, and Mountain expedition service in Nepal. Having years of experience with a strong team and well office management put your journey in safe hands. 

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